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Part I - The
Fire This part seems simple but it is the key to
successful long term cooking. Like tying on a fish hook, the
details really do matter. Clean out your
egg. Dismantle it and vacuum or sweep it
clean. Reassemble fire box and fire ring make sure the hole in
the fire box is squared with the bottom vent. NEVER, NEVER,
NEVER use anything but lump charcoal. NO fast start and NO
briquettes.
Now you're going to think I lost it here, but open your bag of LUMP and
separate the coals into three (3) piles. 1) large pieces 2) medium pieces
3) shake & dust. This last is usually left in the bottom of
the bag of even the best lump.
In your sparkling clean fire box arrange the largest chunk dead
center. This will be the last piece to burn up and, since it
can't clog the bottom holes, it will allow the air circulation to remain
at a relatively even rate during the entire cooking time. Place
remaining large pieces like a jigsaw puzzle until it appears as even as
you can make it with the large pieces. Next, fill in as many
holes and cracks with medium pieces until it looks as even as you can make
it. Then, using the smallest pieces, fill in more of the
area. Last, take all that dust, for lack of a better term, and
level out your bed of coals. (do not make a mound, just like I said
LEVEL). Fill to the top of the fire box, but not above.
DO NOT LIGHT YOUR FIRE NOW. That will be the last thing we
do prior to cooking and I will address that in great detail later.
We feel this method will start easily and burn at a controlled rate,
and as the finer stuff on top turns to ash, most will remain where it was
placed. It will be hard, if not impossible, to clog your air
holes until the last of your fuel is gone. This gives us
maximum cooking time and the hottest fire early when we need the unit to
reach temperature soonest.
O.K. gang that is all for now stay tuned,
Elder Ward
Part II - Rubs and
Sauces Here is where we will fight the civil war of
flavors till the dawn of eternity and never agree on the out
come. So here is my take on the real mystery of the
smoke. My uncle was a restaurant owner and never added his
sauce till just before you ate the pig. His was damned good
pull if I do say so myself but he never thought enough of me to share his
secrets. He did mop the main guest while cooking him to keep
him moist. Since we do not have that problem with our tools I
have varied my personal method two ways. This might seem like a
lot of trouble but, if you have never tried it please make both finishing
sauces the first time and eat a little of both. You may be like
me and love them equally, like children, one better some days, the other
another day, but you still love 'em.
You don't see mustard used in North Carolina like you do in South
Carolina and, as that is JJ's and Mrs. Appledog's bailiwick, I defer that
honor to them. (never used the mustard trick till I came here but that is
another method, not mine.)
Rub · 2 Tbs. kosher salt
(NEVER use iodized salt, it ruins stuff) ·
2 Tbs. sugar (I prefer Hawaii raw when I can get
it.) · 2 Tbs. brown sugar · 2 Tbs. ground cumin seed ·
2 Tbs. chile powder (pure not with garlic etc.
added) · 2 Tbs. cracked black
pepper · 1 Tbs. cayenne pepper (there is no
substitute) · 4 Tbs. Hungarian
paprika · 2 Tbs. ground sage (my secret
ingredient) Makes 1 cup
Blend all. This you will use to cover the raw pork (we
started out cooking the red coats in this country a couple of three
hundred years ago and we still carry on the tradition
today). Some say to leave it on and wrap it up for hours and/or
days in fridge. Personally I have tried that but can not tell
the difference when it has been on only 1 hour. So hay, if
you're into waiting, God bless you.
(A)The Traditional North Carolina Sauce I grew up
with. This would be from my mothers side of the family who are a bunch
of flatlanders near the coast. We only came down out of the
hills to see them just enough to keep the peace in the family and my
mother from running back home for good. She hated the
mountains. We all loved her folks.
· 1 C white vinegar ·
1 C cider vinegar · 1 Tbs. sugar
(Hawaii style when you can) · 1 Tbs.
cayenne pepper (fresh ones split 2 of em instead soak 2 days or more is
best) · 1 Tbs. Tabasco sauce · 1 tsp. kosher salt · 1
tsp. cracked black pepper Makes 2 Cups
Place in a bottle with small neck that will allow you to shake it out a
little at a time.
(B)Western North Carolina (Piedmont) style
sauce · 1 C ketchup (Hot
type) · 1 C water (bottled plain if you
have fluorinated/treated) yuck:~( · ¼ C
apple cider vinegar · 1 onion chopped
fine · 3 cloves crushed garlic or 1 clove
elephant garlic from Gilroy, CA · 2 Tbs.
brown sugar · 2 Tbs. molasses (How can
y'all have Mo lasses if you ain't had lasses da furst time?) · 2 Tbs. dry mustard (Coleman's English double fine is
good) · 1 tsp.. cayenne or one fresh cut
into ringlets seeds and all. Simmer for twenty minutes over low heat.
OK. With (A) you can do two things. If you are
going to use a rack and drip pan directly under pork place 1 cup of sauce
in the drip pan. Not my favorite method, but hay, it has
applications and you will not have to lift the lid to mop. Use
the balance to eat just before serving.
(B) Also has two uses. The last 10 minutes of cooking time
you can use it as a glaze. Again not my favorite but it looks
good and taste good, I like to put it still steaming in the middle of the
table and dip my piece of pork into it — kind of fondue style.
More about this later. Next time I'll be talking about the
actual cooking of the pork in as much detail as I can stand. Well good
night for now,
Elder Ward
Part III -
Cooking Well here we go. This is really the
easy part if you're lazy, or the hardest thing you'll ever do if you are a
type A personality. The purist will use an open pit and hickory wood
burned down to coals with an entire hog laid wide open and flipped every
3-6 hours with no rub and using a vinegar base moping sauce to keep meat
moist for say 16 to 24 hours. That's OK and God bless
em. You and I can't eat that much meat and besides we all own
Eggs or K's. Now that I have eliminated most of the purist out
there, we will talk about how we can have as good, or in my opinion,
better pulled pork than them boys.
This process is best done between 11PM to 1AM due to the cooking time
required. You can expect to eat about 5 to 7 o'clock PM the
next day. If you want to remain as pure as possible don't use
the rub. I use the rub and I like the way it
tastes. Hey, advice is like a house guest you have to listen to
when they are there, but you don't have to ask them back. Cover
the pork as thickly as you can on all sides with the rub. Set
it aside to rest (You, not the pork, this is supposed to be fun, not
work.)
Take a couple of sips of whatever you're drinking and try to remember
that this stuff won't cook if we don't go light that load of lump we put
into the egg about a week or so ago. Oh yeah! (You thought I
forgot didn't you!) This is the great part as there are many
ways up the mountain. I like two methods:
- Using a 1 inch square of fire place lighter, placed it in the middle
and on top of the lump. Light it.
- Use a chimney and put a fist full of lump in it, place newspaper
under it (the second most useful thing news paper was made for, the
first being the bottom of bird cages) Light it.
When the coals
in the chimney are going good, or the fire place starter is burnt out and
you have about a fist full of coals glowing you're ready. Some
folks like to place pieces of chunk or chip, soaked or dry, into the fire
now, and some spread it around so they get smoke over different times
while cooking. I prefer to use a single fist size piece of dry
hickory placed dead center and on top of that little fist size of coals we
just fired up. I think that too much smoke takes away from the
delicate taste of pork and have found that this one piece will cold smoke
the pork and leave a good size smoke ring in the meat because I'm going to
place my pork on the grill now. If you're going to use a heat
defector e.g. pizza stone and bottom rack, place them on now and put the
fire ring in place. If you use the suspended type drip pan or
the stones on top, do it.
Close the lid on Mr. Egg, open the bottom vent all the way and open
Miss Daisy all the way. Let's stop here and explain why I have
done it this way. The smoke will flavor the meat before the
heat sears the meat and seals in the flavor. Since the fire is
small, and Mr. Egg cool, we will get maximum smoke for a long time if the
top vent is kept narrow (for those using slide metal vents).
Put your Polder probe half way into the thickest part of the meat.
Place the main guest on a rack, pan or take him directly to the
grill. I use the rack and a pan to keep the grease from
dripping onto the fire/stone and causing excess smoke and flare ups. Now
some put an amount of water or part of the Vinegar sauce in the bottom of
the pan for moisture and flavor, not me. Lift the lid place the
meat inside and close the lid. Plug in the polder and set the
temperature alarm for 200°.
You're working way to hard, sit down and stare at the dome temperature
gauge and sip some more of that Jack Daniel's, or what ever sissy drink
you happen to have, until the thing reads about 195°. Close the
bottom vent until the heat stabilizes around that heat
level. Remember this is pulled pork (low and slow), not steak
(hot and blast furnace). That is the tricky part because it
could be wide open or only about ¼ inch. I can't tell you this
part because it depends on many factors. (wind, temp outside, whether you
used heat deflectors, size of pork, etc.) This is better known
as the type A personality test. If you have to ask you already are one.
Now you may either party all night long or like me go to
sleep. I definitely am not type A. When you wake up
in the morning look at the dome temperature gauge to see if it is still
about where it should be. If it is, look at the Polder if it
says 185-195° you are either cooking a very small piece of pig or you have
a gale force wind blowing directly up the bottom vent. If your
fire is out go back and reread my post II of IV on how to build a fire and
this time follow the direction and plan on eating late that night or
tomorrow. For the rest of us, some time later on in the day the
internal meat temperature will stabilize around 175 to 185°. At
that point kick open the bottom vent and throw caution to the
wind. Even if it reaches 275-300° in the dome you ain't going
to hurt that meat. Some time later, and believe it or not it
might be hours later, the internal heat will reach 200°.
Remove pork now and wrap it in foil until you are ready to
eat. By the way, after you put the meat into Mr. Egg, and close
the lid.....LEAVE IT SHUT STUPID until the meat reaches
200°. Barbeque will not cook by you looking at
it. This is like religion, you will just have to trust that it
is so. I'm only hard on you because I love you, and it is for
your own good.
OK, next time we wrap this puppy up with how to serve pulled pork and
some normal side dishes. Happy trail to you until we meet
again,
Elder Ward
Part IV -
Serving There are at least three traditional dishes
served at almost every pulled pork joint I can remember. There
is a fourth that I personally like. The first is Cole slaw and
if you don't serve it, it surely is a sacrilege. This needs to
be made 12 or more hours ahead of time, not that it isn't good or eatable
when fresh, its just not right. There are a lot of great ones
out there and here is my favorite.
Mary Lee's, "I Fought the Slaw and The Slaw
Won". These are from the Jack Daniel's old time Barbecue
cookbook by Vince Staten. (with an Elder Ward twist) · 3 LBS. cabbage · 3
ribs of celery · 1 onion (yellow)
· 1 bell pepper ·
3 carrots · 2 C sugar (Hawaiian
when you can get it.) Shred, chop or dice all and mix with sugar. Set
cabbage mixture aside.
· 1/2 Cup of white vinegar · 1/2 Cup of Apple Cider vinegar ·
1/2 C olive oil (my twist) · 1
tsp celery seed · 1 tsp (kosher
salt) Bring all to a boil and pour over cabbage mixture and chill
overnight.
Mamaw's German Potato Salad This is the one non
traditional dish · 4 C cooked potatoes,
cubed · 8 slices bacon, cooked crisp
(important for flavor) & crumbled · 1 C
celery, chopped fine · 3 green (spring)
onions chopped tops and all Combine all ingredients & put in baking
dish. Topping · ½ C
mayonnaise · ¼ C white vinegar · 2 tsp sugar (Hawaiian) ·
1 tsp mustard (French's of other liquid cheap) · 1 tsp salt (kosher) ·
¼ tsp cracked black pepper Combine all and pour over potato
mix and bake @ 350* for 20 min. Egg or K is best but oven will
do. As an aside: My Grandmother and Grandfather on my fathers side
lived on Barcus Creek outside of the small town of Whitter,
NC. We knew them as Mamaw & Papaw (This is Cherokee for
your grandparents if I remember correctly and has nothing to do with the
recipe)
Hush Puppies · 2 C
cornmeal · 1 C all purpose
flour · 1/3 C sugar ·
¼ tsp baking soda (Arm & Hammer) ·
3 tsp baking powder · 2 tsp
salt · 1 tsp black pepper · 1 onion chopped · 2
eggs (chicken type) B^) · 1 C buttermilk
(no 2% stuff here) · 1 TBS butter unsalted,
melted · Peanut oil (enough to fill a cast
iron skillet at least 3+ inches deep) Combine all ingredients except
the oil. Peanut oil is my favorite to cook this in and here is
the important part, make sure the oil is hot enough to evaporate a drop
of water when it is dropped in the oil. You must use high heat and
never cook too much at one time or it will cool the oil and the hush
puppies will be soggy. :~( When the oil reaches temperature, take a
teaspoon and scoop enough dough mixture to create a ball that is just a
hair to big to eat in one bite. Carefully drop this into the
oil. When it floats and is golden brown, use a wire strainer to
lift out of the oil and place on paper towels to drain. Break
the first couple open to be sure that they are done inside if not cook a
little longer this is a feel thing but not hard to get. (THIS
IS THE LAST THING YOU DO BEFORE YOU EAT AS THEY ARE AT THEIR BEST PIPING
HOT AND GO DOWN HILL FROM THAT POINT ON.) They are not bad cold or cool
just not great.
In the old days it was common for the kitchens to be built a good
distance from the main house on the plantations down south to keep from
burning them down. They were wild times and all folks kept
hound dogs running lose in the yard to keep away unwanted guest and for
protection against the less savory type known to steal and
kill. The poor slaves and servants of that time had to navigate
the area between the kitchen and the main house. This involved
carrying large amounts of food that could be a handful and no one was
there to keep the packs of dogs out of the food or from jumping up and
knocking them down and you can bet that the owners didn't care for a loud
ruckus for no reason at all. You can imagine who was held
responsible if that occurred. Hint it weren't the
dogs. So the slaves use to make these corn balls up, place them
in their apron pockets, and as they walked toward the main house with the
food they would throw them to the dogs and say "hush puppy hush
puppy". The rest is history and after trying these you'll see
how lucky those dogs were.
One last thing, here is my twist. If you're a chile head, or
as we us to say, a real man, try chopping up 1 jalapeño pepper, seed and
all, per cup of dough, or if company has a mild taste, fix half with half
without. Boy howdy!
The third thing that is ALWAYS served is ice tea presweetened with
sugar. People out here in California make some great dishes but
what they call ice tea, well, suffice it to say that it does have tea in
it. Boil 2 C water, when it is roiling, drop in 6 family size
tea bags. Cover with a lid and shut off heat
source. Find something to do for an hour but don't you dare
lift that lid until it has sat there at least one hour. Add one
cup of sugar, stir, and place in gallon container. I like to
add as much ice as I can to finish cooling it down. Fill glass
with ice pour in finished tea. Enjoy.
The last item is the all American dish, French Fries. I like
em and I eat em but with pulled Q it is the last thing I touch on my
plate. So if you will forgive me I'll not go into any detail
here about fries.
Well what about old Porky Pig we have been writing about for weeks now,
what do we do with him? You will need a chopping board or block, a large
knife or clever, and a large pan to hold the finished
product. Two other items I find useful are, a large fork of the
carving type, and a trash can with liner installed. If you
have dogs you will not need the later item until they are stuffed.
No matter how you serve your pulled pork, it ain't pulled unless you
pull it. If your a real woman you probably can place your hands
in boiling water and still smile, not me, and hand pulling hot pork is
only slightly worse in my opinion. Use that giant fork and
shred the pork in a raking manner with the grain. This will
leave string like pieces of meat in piles. When and If you come
across pockets of fat or there was and is a cap of fat on the outside, you
have just found the dogs first serving or the reason that we have the
trash can. Continue to shred the meat and feed the dogs or
trash can all the excess fat and any bones that you find. Try
to refrain from drinking beer or other expensive drinks during this time
as your hands will be extremely slick.
When this task is complete there are only two more things to do; one,
cut the pulled meat into either 4-5 inch long pieces or into 1/2 inch
pieces. If you're making sandwiches you'll enjoy them more in
the smaller cuts and if you're eating it on the plate the longer will do
much better.
1) Sandwiches have to be served on the cheapest white bread buns money
can buy. Remember the pork is the thing here. When
you use the vinegar finishing sauce here is how you do
it. While the meat is still hot, drench it with the sauce in
the holding pan and let it set for a few minutes. This will let
the meat absorb the flavor and moisture of the vinegar
sauce. Place as much pulled pork as you can place on the bun
without losing it. Then scoop half as much of that seasoned
cold slaw on top of that then cover and eat it NOW! With all
the ice tea you can stand.
2) If you're serving the vinegar sauce style pork on a plate just serve
it like any civilized person then pig out.
3) For the piedmont style sauce, treat sandwiches like number one
above.
4) Piedmont style in a plate; place the steaming hot sauce in a common
pot center of the table and it's every man, woman and child for
themselves. If you're an avid reader of Miss Manners, you may
wish to place a small bowl of sauce at each place setting for the
convenience of your guests, but to keep them in check you had better
preserve it instead of letting each dish out what they want as some body
will go wanting. Or you could make a triple recipe.
Well I hope you derive some form of enjoyment from the time we have
spent together either in the reading but hopefully in the savoring of this
fine traditional food that is truly American, and that had its origins in
the great state of North Carolina. You may thank Spin &
Mrs. Spin for their encouraging me to attempt this
endeavor. They are first class people.
Well good night and God bless,
Elder Ward |